Upholstering a couch and fringe carpet for a dollhouse

I originally was going to make a chair with this fabric for a different room in the dollhouse.
I temporarily placed the fabric in this room while I was moving something else and WOW! I loved it there!
This was great because the original fabric I had my heart set on showed glue staines so I couldn't use it. ALWAYS test your fabric first to be sure it takes the glue well. I did a small test on a 2" square.

I am always on the look-out for this specific couch. It is the right scale and very well made. I sold my last one after reupholstering it years ago and was so happy when I spotted this one on eBay.

My squirrels were visiting my studio window for their peanuts while I worked, so I got distracted feeding them and didn’t take step-by-step photos for the couch. But I have listed the order below.

Always start gluing the fabric from what will be in the back to the front.
1. the horizontal panel just above the front skirt.
2. the face of the arms-wrap over no hem
3. the front skirt
4. over the arms and on the sides. Hem around the front, wrap around the back of the couch no hem.
5 side skirts and so on...

The rug is a piece of really soft, thick fabric. It needed some fringe so here's how I did it.

Pull your strands out with a needle tool. Oh gosh my needle tool has dried clay on it. I have had it since art college when I took sculpting 25 years ago! :)

I flipped it over so the green spots would be more faded. (The back of the patterned fabric is white) Surprised that it matched the blue carpet great when I flipped it over. Glue it onto the back of your rug!

In-between each snore..."Grandpa, Grandpa, Grandpa...."

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Dollhouse kitchen cabinets

I decided to make my own cabinets for the Kinfeld because the ones I had from another dollhouse that I sold didn't fit correctly.

I used balsa wood for this because I could cut it with my craft knife instead of going to the basement to use my skill saw (I don't always cut a straight line on that thing.)

First I researched features I would like in my design. Then I decided what to twist and compromise on to work in my space and to work within my skill set. One thing I have learned over the years is to not torture myself to try and make something I am not capable of. At the same time I do try and push myself to learn and get better with each project.

So I sketched some plans and worked with 1/8" thick balsa wood. I made a few corrections along the way, but here is my chaos!

So first I cut my large piece of balsa for the front of this cabinet section and covered it with card stock. Initially I painted Mod Podge on the balsa and it warped so I painted the other side and it flattened again and stayed under a book, then I used wood glue to adhere the card and flattened under a book again. This was when I was thinking of painting right on the wood. I thought Mod Podge would help fill in the wood pores. So I switched and used card instead.

I drew my cabinets on an even thicker card and cut out the frame and the drawer/cabinets holes where it would sink in. I popped the cabinet drawer/door frames back in the main frame and traced that (piece on bottom left).

Then I glued the layers on a piece of foam board because I wanted it to come out from the front for the sink area to give some dimension.

Then I glued that to the center of the full front piece.

I experimented here so I will only share what I will be doing for the next sections now that I figured it out. I painted all of it with Mod Podge to seal the paper. Then painted with a white gloss paint. Then used Elmer's glue along all the inset edges to make them curve in. I put the glue in the edges and wiped away with my finger and the glue stayed in the edges. I did this a few times all over in between other projects. Then, once the glue was dry, I painted white and sealed with matt varnish. In between any coat of anything that was painted I ran a needle tool in the crevasses where the drawers and cabinets would open to get any paint out.

I put small silver beads that I had for knobs and slid it into place.

The side cabinets will butt up against this piece.

I can't get into how I did the actual construction because I don't even know myself! I just drew, measured, cut and tried to think ahead with each step.

I decided not to make anything open because I have never gone in and opened any cabinets I have had in the past. Plus a few uppers will have glass doors and there will be one very important drawer that opens, but I will save that surprise! Oh it's going to be so cool!

I finished the right side.

I didn't have room for a refrigerator so I decided to make some modern refrigerator drawers!

Got the other side finished!

Dishwasher is in the back left and trash cabinet is on the left next to it. Love that these items are designed into the cabinets these days. Makes my job easier!

I printed a granite texture but didn't have my fixative spray before I varnished it so it changed the color. I went in with paints and restored it then sealed it again.

The "dishwasher" is behind the back left panel as well as the "trash bin". There will be a flat top stove on the counter above the oven. Making a modern kitchen in some ways is much easier!

 I forgot the crown molding space and had to rip all my work off and start over.

There we go. Much better!

Created my backsplash in Photoshop using a square sample. Had to slowly piece it together. Sprayed with fixative. Then touched up "glass tile" with a high gloss varnish twice.

I used Yes! Paste to put the backsplash up.

Stove top was dowloaded, enhanced in Adobe Indesign, printed - White "buttons" were enhanced with a white gel pen, then varnished, glued to card, edges were colored with black marker, and glued to counter.

All done!

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Dollhouse doors

Making doors

I drew my design on mat board.

I used left over picture mats. I cut the inside bevel out and put it on the door panels.

Then filled in the gaps the best I could with wood filler. Sand, paint, sand, paint and so on!

Make a dollhouse door hinge

See door hinge tutorial here.

http://thekinfelddollhouse.blogspot.com/search/label/door%20hindge

Use wood glue to glue paper hinge on one side to your door. It's really important to be sure it dries completely before you go any further. But once it's tacky slip your finger inside the hinge and give it extra press down.

Put glue on the back of the hinge and slip a small piece of wax paper between the hinge.  Be sure the glossy side is against the glued section of the hinge.

Put the door into the door hole and press the hinge side against the inside molding. This part is tricky and it really will depend on your door design and your molding design. Use a wedge if needed until the glue has set. I use toothpicks here but folded paper would be better so you don't leave an indent from the pressure.

I had one hinge that didn't take when I used three on my side door shown below, so I had to just leave it because the other two were still attached. So for the rest of my doors I only used two hinges.

Oops this was my first door. As you can see the hinges are suppose to be on the inside! Pay attention before you put your doors in Auralea!

The front doors were very involved. There was a lot of trail and error so I didn't take too many how-to photos.

The stained glass inserts were a lot of steps.
Basically I used acetate film that has a matt and glossy side. (I have a vintage stack of it not sure what it is, 8.5 x 11 transparency film maybe?)
Trace design lines in black on the matt side (I think, now I can't remember). Then use what ever maker works for color on the gloss side. I used Golden medium gloss for the texture and Golden medium matt for the white. Then I put it behind a thicker piece of acetate.

They are close to how I wanted them. So I think I will find a way to be happy with them.

Now onto the front door roof over-hang with fancy brackets!

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